Harnas Wildlife Foundation was amazing. Everyone keeps asking me what it was like, and it is hard to explain fully to everyone, so I thought I'd write a blog post.
My brothers, Deron and Doug, and I had quite the journey getting to Namibia. After our seat being given away in SLC and an emergency landing in NYC, we almost didn't get there. Finally, we flew straight to South Africa, and then took a small plane to Namibia. By then, we were extremely jet-lagged after 40 hours of traveling, and had a lot of difficulty getting through customs. But everything was better once we left the airport. We nearly got into a car with a fake cab driver, but were saved at the last second by a real one. Then we had a relaxing half an hour ride from the Windhoek airport, to the actual city of Windhoek. On the way, we saw wild giraffes and kudus, and the landscape was beautiful.
We stayed in the Hilton in Windhoek for two days before a driver from Harnas picked us up. We drove two hours to Gobabis, which is a scary city. I've never seen poverty like that. Everyone hangs out at the gas station, so there are like 100 people at each gas station, just standing around doing nothing. Namibia has a lot of unemployed people. We saw trucks pull up that had twenty people inside because they all carpool together. I've never seen anything like it.
After another hour's drive, we made it to Harnas. On Day 1, it was mostly unpacking and learning the rules. Deron and Doug shared a cabin, I was in a cabin with three other girls from around the world. At first I had wanted to stay with my brothers, but I'm glad we were separated. We got to know other people more than we would have.
On Day 2, we had breakfast (everyone eats in a big open hut where you have to fight off animals) an orientation, and a tour of the massive Harnas farm. We were not allowed to go in with the animals yet, but we were able to sit outside of their enclosures. During free time after lunch, I had my first experience with baboons. They immediately loved Deron and Doug, and groomed them through the fence. They weren't so nice to me. Chloe pinched me and tried to stare me down, the babies wouldn't groom me, and Loydie and Yawnie made that terrible screech and tore my shirt off through the fence. It was terrifying.
I was feeling sorry for myself that none of the baboons liked me. Then I looked over and noticed one of the really big ones was watching me. Deron and I wandered over to his enclosure. His name is Roger, and he is the alpha of the older group of baboons. As soon as I approached him, he bared his teeth and made a chattering noise. It means he wants to be groomed. I rubbed him through the fence, and he groomed my legs, being very careful with me, and taking his time inspecting beneath my socks and shoes. He was so sweet. He kept the other baboons away, and he held my hand.
The next day, we started the real work. The lions roar and wake everyone up at six, and then you have to make the 10 minute hike to the lodge. Breakfast is at 7:00, and then we met together at 8:00 for a morning meeting to discuss what needed to be done. Activities could include: food preparation, animal walks, enclosure cleaning, farm work (fence repair, water hole repair, etc.), animal grooming, etc. Those activities are divided up, and then everyone meets together again at 1:00 for lunch. After lunch there is free time, and then at 3:00, another meeting to discuss what still needs to be done for the day. Activities are divided, you meet together at 6:00 for dinner, and then everyone has free time for the rest of the nights. Most nights, everyone gathered for bonfires to socialize before bed. Most people went to bed around 9:00, because you were so exhausted from all the hard work of the day.
When we were finally allowed to go in with animals on Day 3, I didn't have any problems. Befriending the alpha, Roger, seemed to help a lot with the baboons, even the ones he was not alpha over. The baboons were a freaking blast. They love to play and groom. There were a lot of misconceptions about the baboons where I first arrived. Everyone warned me that they don't like women, and I was shown an array of massive bruises people had from bites. If one baboon attacks, they all do, so you can easily end up fighting an entire group. They are extremely intimidating and strong. But I didn't have any problems. Chloe and Abu were the first ones I went in with. Chloe is the big female, and she loved to go through my hair. Abu is a young male who just wants to have fun.
I fell into an easy rhythm. I was not afraid of the baboons, so I always ended up doing activities with them. I'd take them out for walks in the wild bush, no enclosures, and no one around to help. That was my favorite. The babies LOVED the walks.
I would bottle feed the babies, play with Chloe and Abu, and eventually, I went in with the bigger ones, Loydie and Yawnie. Yawnie had a terrible reputation because he used to bite everyone. He was abused, forced to live in a bar for the entertainment of drunk patrons. He was easily scared and didn't like most people. Then he met my brother, Deron. Deron was not afraid of him, and was comforting. Yawnie climbed in his arms and hugged him constantly, and would always run to Deron when he was scared. And Deron taught him to kiss.
Yawnie was changed after he met Deron. He liked human affection, and he wasn't mean to girls like everyone said.
Every Wednesday, we took the large baboons for a walk into the bush. Many people are very afraid of the big ones because they are aggressive and so powerful. I'd been sitting outside of their enclosure every day spending time with the alpha, Roger. I was so afraid he wouldn't remember me once he was outside the cage. But as soon as we let him out, he jumped on my shoulders, and he stayed with me for a good portion of the walk. He kept all of the other baboons away from me, so I was able to enjoy a peaceful walk with my new man.
We spent every waking moment with the animals. I played with cheetahs and leopards, and admired lions. The lions roared so loud, it sounded like I was surrounded every time they started. The merekats had an instant hatred for me, so I didn't go in with them again after giving them a second chance that ended up with me bleeding. Again. I brushed bat-eared foxes, fed African painted dogs, played tug-of-war with caracals, hosed down warthogs, and got kissed by a baby kudu. The experience was amazing. Every activity was amazing. I fell in love with all of the animals, but the baboons were indescribable. They weren't just friends, they were best friends.
I made it through all of Harnas without getting bitten by a baboon once. That is quite the feat if you understand baboons. Everyone called me "Baboon Woman", and I taught the new people not to be afraid of them. I already miss them. I met wonderful people there, and will never forget the experience. But even more than the people, I will never forget the baboons.
